As our quick 50 minute flight from Athens made its approach to Heraklion, we all gazed with delight at the sparkling sea and rugged, arid landscape of Crete. This second visit to the island with our three children (ages 15, 11 and 5) was a blend of excitement and anxiety.
While we all were extremely enthusiastic about a return visit to a beloved holiday spot, travel during the Covid-19 pandemic was tricky and a bit uneasy.
Masks firmly in place, we made our way through the airport. Having cleared customs and immigration in Athens the day before, we did not need to show proof of vaccination (nor was it required for the younger children), but we were prepared regardless. After a quick retrieval of our bags followed by securing our rental car, we were finally on our way.
As we’ve said before, Crete is nothing short of magical.
The largest of the Greek islands, it sits the furthest south and is a mere 180 miles north of the African coast at Crete’s southernmost tip. Rugged hills with sparse vegetation feature heavily in the south and west of the island, while higher plains and greener vistas pepper the north and east. The three largest cities, Chania, Rethymno, and Heraklion, are located on the north coast and each can be easily reached by flights and ferries from mainland Greece and most of the islands.
On the southern coast, small villages — some of which are only accessible by boat or foot — pop up between mountain passes and at the end of narrow valleys. Ancient archaeological sites, churches and monasteries, stunning gorges, war monuments, and transcendent beaches pepper the island.
While there are beach resorts and hotels both elegant and simple throughout the island, we chose to rent private homes and apartments for our stay. This allowed our family to have a bit more room to relax, while also providing us with the benefits of home — a kitchen, laundry, and common areas to enjoy.
Having a private home also allowed us to worry a bit less about Covid. While vaccination rates are high in Greece, at the time of travel, our younger children were not able to be vaccinated in the United States due to their age. While we wore masks in shops, ride shares, taxis, on flights and on ferries, we were able to eat outside and enjoy outdoor activities (beach and hiking) mask-free while vacationing. We also were not staying at crowded hotels or resorts.
For this trip, we flew into Heraklion and made our base in Rethymno and Chania. These two gems are at the most narrow point of the island from north to south, allowing us to make easy day trips to sites along the south coast. While much of Crete feels remote and rugged, these two towns are ancient sea ports with historic, bustling seaside neighborhoods filled with energetic dining, shopping and late night fun.
Rethymno Highlights
The city of Rethymno, not to be confused with the prefecture of the same name, has a charming Venetian old town that sits along the coast and a small warren of narrow streets filled with beautiful homes, shops, restaurants and bars. We found ourselves happily wandering the streets after a long day at the beach, treating the kids to gelato before a relaxing dinner. Parking lots are available, and it’s a short walk into the pedestrian-only areas.
If you find yourself in Rethymno and want to discover more, there are a number of guided and self-directed tours of the city’s historic sites, including the Venetian-era citadel, the Fortezza of Rethymno, one of the best-preserved castles in Crete. Additionally, there is the Neratze mosque (the Municipal Odeon Arts Centre), the Great Gate (Μεγάλη Πόρτα or "Porta Guora"), the Piazza Rimondi, and the Loggia.
Dining faves:
Akti Damnoni — Casual beach-side taverna at Damnoni Beach with six rooms for nightly rental.
Taverna Zisis — For the epitome of family dining, head out the main road just a mile from downtown Rethymno to this taverna that feels cozy, yet has dozens of family-style tables. This casual restaurant was such a favorite with our family, we went twice in five days. Delicious traditional food and drink, affordable prices, outdoor dining under the stars, and a playground for the kids made this a dinner spot all of us enjoyed. Not gonna lie, our five-year-old spent more time on the playground than at our table, but it made for a somewhat relaxing change of pace for dinner.
Avli Restaurant — This was a splurge dinner. Situated in a flower-filled courtyard of a 16th century Venetian villa, this restaurant features delicious and innovative cuisine with contemporary twist. The food is visually stunning and features hyper local ingredients. While Daddy AK enjoyed a five-course meal, the rest of the family ordered a la carte, and the kiddos were adventurous with their choices. While we did enjoy the meal, it was certainly an investment in time and expense.
Chania Highlights
Many consider Chania to be one of the most charming and enchanting cities not only on Crete but on all the Greek isles. A former Venetian stronghold, Chania’s old town features a beautiful harbor bordered by a Venetian-era lighthouse and walls. There is something magical about wandering the harbor and adjacent streets at sunset; the people and yacht watching is superb. Restaurants, cafes and bars spill out onto the sidewalks and quays running along the harbor and into the narrow alleys. Shops stay open late — until midnight or after — catering to the late night dinner and drinks crowd. Bars stay open and hopping until sunrise.
Saying all that, it’s a highly enjoyable and family-friendly city. Our children loved wandering into the numerous shops, and enjoyed late dinners and even later bedtimes. On our first night in Chania, we took an amazing sunset cruise on a restored ship. We left Chania harbor and sailed along the coast until we found a lovely spot to enjoy the sun slipping below the sea. The kids loved jumping off the boat for a sunset swim while my husband and I sipped cocktails and supervised.
Being so far south and somewhat removed from major cities, the stars on the sail back to port were amazingly bright, and you could see a handful of planets arched over the horizon. We arrived back at port at 10 pm, which would seem impossibly late for a dinner with the kids, but we were all energized after a relaxing cruise…plus the kids knew that a late start would mean a late bedtime with plenty of sweets along the way.
There’s beauty and energy in Chania. And while parking can be extremely challenging, we were lucky to book a very comfortable apartment just off the harbor with a parking spot. Otherwise, it can be a bit of a bear to find parking, especially after a day spent away from the city.
Like Rethymno, there are historic sites peppered throughout the old town. There are also numerous boat trips available to whisk you to nearby beaches and sites along the north and northwest coast.
Dining faves:
Mesostrato — Casual dining off one of the small alleys in Old Town Chania. Lovely outdoor seating under a number of giant trees gives this restaurant an inviting feel. Accommodating staff and classic Cretan food.
Ta Chalkina — Delicious, energetic restaurant on the Old Port. Lovely outdoor seating with views of the harbor. Food was enjoyed by all — whether it was a traditional Cretan favorite or something new for the kiddos’ expanding palates. We could not get enough of their fresh baked bread paired with amazing, local olive oil. We also indulged in a cheese plate featuring some local favorites. And it sounds somewhat tame, but their roast chicken was unbelievably delicious.
Salis — Another favorite we stumbled upon while wandering around Chania’s harbor, Salis was a hit. We enjoyed Greek favorites as well as some Italian offerings, and their wine list was impressive. Lovely outdoor seating under a pergola.
Beach Highlights
The name translates to three rocks which might sound boring, but the three rock formations on the eastern vista of this two mile stretch of sand are unlike anything we’ve ever seen. Yes, it might be a bit of a difficult drive, but once you arrive, it is magical.
Imagine a lengthy stretch of pebbly beach with turquoise water, ending in a dramatic set of rock formations that have been weathered by eons of wind, sand and water. Standing like three sentinels, the rock formations upon closer inspection look like stacks of cut up pancakes that will be all too tempting for your adventurous kiddos to climb.
Speaking of wind though, the beaches on the south and west side of the island may be excessively windy, so check the weather and plan accordingly.
This lovely beach features chairs and umbrellas available for rent (when we visited, it was 6 Euros per pair of chairs and an umbrella set up). Bring water shoes to make accessing the water and enjoying the beach more comfortable. And prepare for any rock climbers in your group — our middle guy loves to climb, so we had to set down some ground rules.
There is a tree-covered taverna, which is the perfect place to grab a late lunch and relax after spending time in the very intense August sun.
Parking was easy and adjacent to the beach.
One of our favorites on the south coast, Damnoni is a fairly easy drive from Rethymno (maybe 45 minutes or so). The drive winds up and down the mountains then ends as you cut through a gap that ends at the beach. There are a few tavernas off the beach that have parking available, or you can keep driving and try and grab a spot on the road adjacent to the beach.
Chairs and umbrellas are available for rent from a number of vendors. Simply grab the ones you want, and a server will collect the fee. Several tavernas line the beach, offering a beautiful spot to enjoy a meal or simply a snack and drink. The beachside tavernas will also deliver food or drinks to your chairs on the beach.
There are water sport items available for rent — paddle boards, sea kayaks, etc. You can also charter a boat to go water skiing or tubing.
The water, like Triopetra, is turquoise blue and very clear. The sand is soft, and we didn’t need our water shoes while enjoying the beach.
We stumbled upon this little gem by accident, but it turned into one of our favorites. Just a short drive from Rethymno, it’s a little bit of an adventure to get here. We took some crazy side roads and shot down a steep hill to reach the beach’s small parking lot, but once you’re there, it’s great. There are two fun tavernas on the beach as well as chairs and umbrellas for rent. Our boys loved climbing the rocks on the far side of the beach and jumping into the crystal clear water.
One of our favorites! This beach is about an hour’s drive from Chania and sits at the base of a bluff on the west coast of the island. There is plentiful parking, a number of beach tavernas, water sport rentals (paddle boards, jet skis, tubing, etc.), crystal clear water, and soft, golden sand. Chair and umbrella rental is reasonable, and the tavernas will deliver food and drinks to you via ATV. The wind can be intense, so keep that in mind and secure your belongs before they blow away.
We opted to use one of our final days in Crete to visit the beautiful Balos Bay. While it is possible to get to this fairly out-of-the-way beach via car, that involves a nail biting car ride followed by a lengthy hike to reach the water. Not ideal when traveling with young children.
Instead, there are numerous boat tours leaving from Kissamos Kastelli that take you from the port directly to Balos and also stop at Gramvousa Island. You can either drive to Kissamos and park in the lot adjacent to the port, or many tour operators offer transportation from hotels or pick-up-points in Chania.
Once you board the ferry, you will travel to either Balos Bay or Gramvousa (an approximate 45 minute journey). Umbrellas and chairs are limited at Balos, but you can rent umbrellas on the ferry. If you’re interested in snorkeling or hiking, be sure to bring appropriate gear. I would recommend bringing water shoes. There’s a small cafe on the ferry, which sells snacks, drinks and sandwiches. Be prepared to bring what you need off the ferry.
Depending on your tour operator, you will spend a couple hours at each location — our boat hit Balos first, then stopped at Gramvousa on the return.
Balos features clear, warm water and a very shallow lagoon with pinkish sand on one side — which our five-year-old loved to splash about in — and the shining blue sea on the other. There are deeper areas throughout, but the scenery is what draws thousands here each day. The bay is ringed by rugged hills that slope down to meet the gorgeous sea. It is quite beautiful, but it’s also very crowded in high season. If you are interested in a less congested visit, leave very early in the morning (but you’ll need to take your chances on the drive and the hike).
Gramvousa features the crumbling remains of a Venetian fortress perched on the top of the hill. You can hike up from the beach, but wearing appropriate shoes will make it far more comfortable. There’s a small, rocky beach (also good to bring water shoes) and the sunken remains of a cargo ship which make for an interesting backdrop for snorkeling.
Beaches to Skip: Marathi and Loutraki
There are a number of beaches located on the Akrotiri peninsula (past the Chania airport). While they’re located closer to Chania than many of the other beaches listed above, we found them to be very underwhelming. They’re small, and the water isn’t picturesque. The beaches we visited and quickly left were Marathi and Loutraki.
Interested in learning more about Crete? Read our earlier trip report for more details on the Samaria Gorge hike with kiddos, Elafonisi Beach (one of the most picturesque on Crete, although not a hidden spot by any means), and more.
And while we spent a week on the island, it was by no means long enough. Already dreaming of a return trip!
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