Rugged terrain, startling switchbacks and an abundance of beautiful beaches makes Crete's west coast a treat for all.
Flying into Chania International Airport (Ioannis Daskalogiannis), our boys were transfixed by the arid landscape and turquoise waters of the Sea of Crete. They weren't alone. We sat quietly absorbing the beauty of this island, and once we were on the ground, it did not disappoint.
Crete is Greece's southernmost island and also its largest. And while there are countless beautiful beaches throughout the Greek isles, Crete features Venetian strongholds, stunning gorge hikes and mountainous passes that are not for the faint-hearted.
Crete has been on our "must return to" list for the past 13 years, and this summer we were fortunate enough to make a second trip to this unforgettable island with our kiddos in tow (and two other families!). For those who have never visited Greece, Crete is a lovely introduction to the country. Its varied terrain and wealth of activities make it desirable for at least a week's stay. There are a number of daily flights into its two airports -- Chania on the northwest side of the island and Heraklion on the northeast. There is also regular ferry service from Athens and other islands, and numerous cruise lines make a port stop in either Chania or Heraklion.
We decided to take advantage of some outstanding airfare options and flew from the States to Stockholm. Then after a few lovely days in Sweden, we hopped on a direct flight from Stockholm's Arlanda Airport to Chania.
Getting our Bearings
Our first few minutes in Greece were surprisingly easy -- immigration was a breeze, bags arrived quickly, and we were out the door headed to our rental car. Given the size and scope of Crete, it's advisable to rent a car. Here's where it got a little dicey -- since our last trip to Greece, they've now instituted a mandate that in addition to a state-issued driver's license, you also must have (and present) an international driver's permit. We overlooked that bit in the fine print of our rental agreement and were turned away from our rental agency. After a few stress-filled minutes, we were able to backtrack to the arrivals hall and book a car with a different company that was less rigid. My tip -- go get an international permit and avoid the hassle. They are easy to secure at home and will save you time and headaches.
Driving in Crete is fairly easy, though the roads can be narrow and winding in small villages. Like the U.S., they drive on the right and street signs are posted in both Greek and Latin characters. Be aware of speed-enforcement cameras on some of the major highways. Look for black-and-white signs that notify you of the camera ahead -- they're mounted on cream-colored poles. If you're speeding, a lovely ticket may arrive at your home a month or so after your trip.
And while Crete is an island, it's not small and the rugged terrain adds time to your travels. For this reason, we decided to spend our time mainly on the west side of the island. We explored beaches on the north, west and southern coasts, rented an outstanding home outside Rethymno, hiked the Samaria Gorge, and enjoyed a couple spellbinding days in a lovely apartment overlooking Chania's Old Town and Harbor. And we didn't even scratch the surface after a full week of exploring. Will definitely need to revisit!
Our Cretan Adventure
There's no shortage of activities to keep you and your kiddos enthralled while visiting Crete. Whether you are a history buff, beach bum, hiking enthusiast or foodie, Crete can deliver. We opted for a blend of beach activities with a smattering of hiking and in-town fun.
Here's a quick rundown of our itinerary and tips to make the most of your island vacation:
Top Beaches
Elafonisi Beach
By no means is this an unheard of gem at this point, but it is still beautiful and well worth the accolades. Elafonisi is located approximately 75 km from Chania, and once you head through Kissamos, the road winds through the mountainous terrain and remote villages, feeling a bit perilous and hair-raising. It is located on the southwest coast of the island and takes approximately 60-90 minutes to drive from Chania.
This beautiful sandy beach attracts a wide crowd of beach lovers -- backpackers, families, cruise-ship daytrippers and svelte Instagram-loving couples with selfie-sticks in hand. During high season, this beach is jammed (as is the parking lot), so head there early if securing a lounger and umbrella is a priority.
The beach is actually an island, separated by a warm lagoon of crystal clear water. This shallow lagoon is a perfect spot for kiddos to play, and as it is generally fairly windy at the beach, our boys spent quite a bit of time letting the wind and gentle current push them in their floats out towards craggy rock formations that form a barrier at the edge of the lagoon. Keep a firm hold on floats though -- one of ours blew out of their hands and is probably in Libya at this point.
Elafonisi is famous for its soft, pink-tinged sand, wild flowers and black rock formations rising from the sea (which were magnets for kids honing their cliff-diving skills). There are a number of sections of beach chairs and umbrellas available for daily rental. In high season, arrive early to get spots. Additionally, there's a stand to rent windsurfing gear. Food and drink options are limited and fairly underwhelming, so plan to bring something more interesting or keep your expectations low.
Wind -- Like many beaches in Crete, it can get extraordinarily windy. Prepare to keep your belongings weighed down or risk them being blown out to sea. And if shade is necessary, make sure you can stake down or firmly set umbrellas and tents.
While it takes a bit of work to get to Elafonisi, it is magical and well worth the effort. We spent a full day here playing in the lagoon, floating in the current, jumping off rocks and soaking up the sun.
Tips:
Get here early! The parking lot can fill up by midday.
Bring your own food and drinks.
Wade across the lagoon and stay on the wide, expansive beach for a more relaxed day.
Park on the upper portion of the lot and close to the exit. While it may take a bit longer to walk to and from the beach, you'll save yourself a headache later. It took us 45 minutes to exit the parking lot because we were in the lower portion. And the parking lot is somewhat disorganized, so be prepared to go with the flow.
Falasarna Beach
Located approximately 50 km due west of Chania is the outstanding Falasarna Beach. As you drive down a massive bluff, the sea and beach come into view and you'll be speechless as you take in the sight of the turquoise sea and swath of sand that make up the beach. While the beach is popular, even on busy days it didn't feel jammed due to its width and length.
There are a number of tavernas that line the drive down to the beach -- each offering terraces facing the sea. There's an expansive parking lot near the beach and a number of vendors renting loungers and umbrellas. Additionally, there's a small shop that rents boogie boards, snorkeling and windsurfing gear, and jet skis.
Our day was spent playing in the surf, riding the waves as they crested and snorkeling in the crystal clear water. Like our day at Elafonisi, we battled a strong wind at Falasarna. But that just created some fun waves for boogie boarding.
After a full day of sun and sand, we headed back east towards Chania, and made a quick pit stop for the adults at the Cretan Brewery. While relaxing on their beautiful terrace, we enjoyed a flight of local craft brews and some small bites to tide us over until dinner. They also have a kids menu featuring crowd favorites and some local flavor.
Tips:
Wind is an issue, so check weather conditions if that is a concern.
There are a number of signs directing you to the parking lot -- all take you to the same spot.
There are numerous greenhouses lining the base of the valley, so stop at the very top for photos if you want to avoid them in your shots.
Damnoni Beach
We loved this small beach that seemed a little more off the beaten path. On the south coast, about an hour's drive from Rethymno, Damnoni Beach is at the end of a small road that cuts through a pass in the mountains. The beach is ringed with tavernas, so after a few hours of beach fun, you can pop across the street and enjoy a cocktail and a bite to eat.
The beach has rentable chairs and umbrellas, a shower to rinse off pesky sand and a vendor renting snorkeling gear and other items.
There are also a number of small coves just east of the main beach that can be reached by swimming between the beaches. While we didn't make our way over there with all the kiddos in tow, it did look idyllic from afar.
Tips:
Parking can be a challenge. If you have a larger vehicle, or are uncomfortable with tight roads, park north of the beach and walk.
The tavernas will deliver food and drinks to the beach chairs.
Be aware that there are day-tripper boats that pull straight up to the beach. There are red buoys that mark the boat lane.
Samaria Gorge
If hiking is your jam, Crete offers a wealth of options. The most famous and well traveled is the Samaria Gorge hike. This 16km ramble starts at a peak in the White Mountains, and you'll descend over the course of 4-6 hours depending on how quickly you hustle and how many breaks you take. You end at the south coast seaside village of Agia Roumeli, where you can soak your aching feet in the ocean and grab a satisfying beer.
I'm not going to lie -- this hike is tough. My feet and legs ached for days afterwards. But the scenery is outstanding, so if you think you (and your kiddos) are ready for a challenge, this is it.
There are a number of tour operators that will organize your journey to the summit from Chania or Rethymno and surrounding areas. Or you can take the public bus. For either option, I would recommend starting early. Enjoy the crisp morning air and take in the awe-inspiring vista before plunging down the gorge -- you'll drop roughly 4,500 feet over the course of the hike and see some of the most spectacular scenery in Crete, that is if you're not watching your feet as you scramble over stones and boulders.
There are numerous water stations along the route, so bring a refillable water bottle. I'd also recommend packing hearty snacks to keep you and the kiddos satisfied until you reach Agia Roumeli. And stay on the path! Rangers are on patrol to remind you of the rules, but it's easy to disturb stones that can rain down on others further down the trail.
Towards the end of the hike, you'll come to the "Iron Gates" -- the narrowest point in the gorge and probably the most photographed. At this point, the walls of the gorge are only three yards apart and the cliff wall climbs 1,000 feet.
The last few kilometers are brutal -- I'm not going to lie. The sun is hot, your feet will be tired, and the sight of rocks, rocks and more rocks might send you a bit crazy. But then you're out! At the edge of the gorge there are two small bars serving fresh squeezed orange juice, ice cream and beer. All of which tasted outstanding. There's also a bus available that can whisk you into Agia Roumeli (2 euro/person) or you can walk the final two kilometers. As AD had our youngest in a backpack, we opted for the bus. Best investment ever!
Upon reaching the tiny community of Agia Roumeli, you'll find restaurants, bars, cafes, souvenir shops and the beach. The village is only accessible by foot or boat, and most hikers hop on one of the ferries to nearby Chora Sfakion where buses or other shuttles take them to their final destination. Don't miss the last ferry or you'll be spending the night here! Check the schedule in advance so you know how quickly you'll need to move through the gorge. Our last ferry left at 5:30pm.
Tips:
The black sand in Agia Roumeli absorbs the heat, so wear your shoes right to the water's edge.
Check the ferry timetable before your hike so you know how slowly or quickly you need to walk.
If hiking down the entire gorge seems too much, you can do the reverse and hike in from Agia Roumeli and turn around at the Iron Gates.
Wear appropriate shoes. No sandals. Hiking shoes or shoes with good tread are best because the stones on the path can be quite slippery.
Bring water bottles and snacks. There is a small store at the top of the gorge but nothing else to purchase until you reach the end of the hike.
Watch the weather. The gorge may not be open if there's rain and it closes for some months in the off season.
Old Town Action
After days of beaches, hiking and exploring, we ended our time on Crete enjoying the beauty of Chania. This former Venetian stronghold has a charming old town full of winding streets, bustling restaurants and cafes, shops to satisfy any last-minute souvenir shopping and a highly photogenic harbor and Venetian fortress.
The kids loved running along the harbor walls as they were pummeled by the waves. We all enjoyed leisurely meals and shopping for small souvenirs. And the apartment we rented featured the most perfect rooftop deck where we enjoyed beautiful sunsets and nightly meteor showers. All in all, a fantastic way to wind down our stay.
Tips:
Parking can be a huge headache in the old town. There are a number of parking lots just outside the city walls, which are a short walk to the harbor.
Like everywhere in Greece, dinner is served late. We ate out around 10pm each night with all our kiddos in tow. Many restaurants are open well past midnight.
If you can't find time to souvenir shop during the day, don't despair. Shops in old town were open until midnight.
There's a fun nightlife scene in Chania. Many restaurants shift to bar/club mode as the night progresses.
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