Of all the experiences that a family can have in Europe, going to a Christmas market is THE most magical. With a chill in the air, you’ll be surrounded by locals and visitors alike celebrating the season.
Each holiday season, Christmas markets across Europe spring up to celebrate the holiday season in big cities and small towns with a blend of religious reverence, old-world superstitions, and an extra helping of local charm.
The following guide highlights our favorite Christmas markets with notes specifically about experiences for kids.
Nuremberg — This was the first Christmas market that we ever visited, so it will always be one of our favorites. Dozens of little stalls are spread out in a tidy grid in front of the Dom on the main square. Santa makes regular appearances. Check online to find the schedule for caroling and an appearance from the Christkind—a German Christmas angelic figure who is a cute blond teenager. It will all be in German, but you’ll be able to follow along.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber — This little German medieval village feels like Christmas any time of year, and its Christmas market makes it a little bit extra. You’ll feel transported to the 16th century while surrounded by lively Christmas spirit all around. However, Rothenburg is very small. Hotels will be booked up months ahead of time. Visiting as a day trip from Munich or Nuremberg is an option. Beyond the Christmas markets and general holiday merriment, your kiddos may love to walk the ramparts of the town walls or go on a ghost tour after sundown.
Stockholm — The old town of Gamla Stan hosts two small Christmas markets on pedestrian squares. Stortorgets Julmarknad and Stockholms Gillet feature your standard offerings of foods, handicrafts, and candles. Seek out some Viking-themed ornaments for your tree. The only downside to these markets is that they both close at 6 pm and even though it will be pitch black by 3:30 pm this time of year, a 6 pm close just feels a bit too early.
For a more lively bit of holiday cheer, head over to Skansen. This open-air living history museum spreads out over several acres to recreate Swedish life from 200 years ago. But in the center at Bollnäs square, it’s contemporary fun with a healthy dose of Swedish nostalgia. Most days during the holiday season a live band performs Christmas standards—both Swedish and English tunes. Eager crowds gather and move in time around a huge circle in a dance that seemingly kids, parents, and grandparents have all been dancing together for generations. There is a definite Scandinavian folk feels to it and it’s insanely fun.
Munich — One of my favorite experiences in my 25 years of traveling to Europe is the feeling I get walking up the stairs from the subway at Marienplatz. Emerging up the escalator to the main square of Munich somehow feels like coming home with the beautiful Rathaus, the welcoming cobblestones, and the overrated Glockenspiel.
We’ve been to Munich a half dozen times and it never disappoints—except for its Christmas market. But it’s not Munich’s fault. The city is Germany’s top tourist destination, and with direct flights from several US cities, it is also very accessible.
But that means crowds. While visiting in a pre-pandemic December, the Munich Christmas market was thronged with people to the point that it was difficult to push a stroller down the sidewalk. It was so packed that each stall offering a little bit of Christmas charm was five deep with browsers. We wanted and expected to love the Munich Christmas Market, so it was a bummer to experience a market so crowded that it lacked the cuteness and charm that we’ve come to expect from Munich.
Paris — Les Villages De Noel is situated along the Champs-Elysees and is one of the largest Christmas markets in Europe. However, it feels more like an anytime carnival of steel structures rather than a true holiday event. The best part is the small Marche Gourmand. This market within a market is a foodie’s respite with more charm than the rest of the half-mile-long market. Grab a glass of champagne or gluhwein and the most wonderfully warming little bites of fries and pork sandwiches that feel like a bit of old-world charm within the throng of Paris’ largest city.
Salzburg — The Christmas markets of Salzburg are my happiest of happy places. Even writing about it makes me smile. We’ve been four times, and I would happily visit Salzburg every Christmas for the rest of my days. There are multiple Christmas markets spread throughout Salzburg’s historic center, but the main one weaves between the fountain at Mozartplatz up towards St. Peter’s Church. The market is nice and wide so it never feels crowded. Most nights feature carolers on the steps of the Dom Zu Salzburg church to lend an air of beautiful solemnity and fun.
While the market is chock full of options for fantastic food and warming drinks, plan on dinner at Steigl for great beer, warming soup, and amazing views over Salzburg and the Christmas market. The restaurant itself is so decked out for holiday merriment that you’ll be tempted to use it as a backdrop for next year’s Christmas cards—which we’ve done.
Beyond the main market, there is a smaller market hosted by Sternbrau — a local craft brewery that features great beer (of course) and multiple stalls with upscale crafts, clothes, decor, and souvenirs.
For an amazing respite, check out the beer garden at Stiftkeller with a Christmas/Apline theme that will make you want to sit and stay awhile. It’s partially covered and cozy with blankets draped over the chairs to keep you warm and comfortable.
Vienna — Austria’s capital city has several different Christmas markets. The market by the Stephanplatz is not so much a central market as it is a collection of little vendors ringing the church. It’s far from our favorite but the soup guy by the front of the church serves the most amazing knoblauchcreme suppe—garlic cream soup in a bread bowl. My daughter was five when we visited and she still says that is her favorite meal ever.
About five minutes walk from the Dom is the Am Hof market which is more about great food and amazing drinks than trinkets and shopping. If you love an Aperol Spritz (and who doesn’t) this market offers a hot version. Or try any of the many and amazing hot drinks with “schlagobers” (whipped cream).
For a more kid-focused market, hop in a cab to the outer ring to the Viennese Dream Market in front of the old city hall. This massive and sprawling affair includes a full set of carnival rides that will have the kids laughing all night.
Colmar — The French town of Colmar is a foodie’s delight. Cute, compact and walkable, you can stroll around the town for an hour or a week and never get tired of the sights and smells. The toy museum will keep the kids entertained with a fun mix of antique and hands-on exhibits. The kitschy tourist train is also fun for kids. Market-wise, be sure to get a tarte-flambe, a yummy French version of a flatbread pizza. Dads will also love the bierre-de-Noel, the Alsace Christmas beer.
Copenhagen —We only had a few hours in Copenhagen so we could not do an exhaustive visit across the multiple markets around the Indre By or Old Town area. That said, the Julemarked Kongens Nytorv market was a typical mix of good food, warm drinks, and Danish charm. The Christmas Market at Tivoli is a dose of ultra-cuteness within a classic kids' fun park. The Christmas Market at Nyhavn closer to the harbor was more of a collection of sweaters, souvenirs, and trinkets, but the kids still love the little wooden Viking-themed ornaments we bought there.
Koln: This is an industrial working city famous for a stunningly unique cathedral in the center of town. If you find yourself riding the rails, Koln is a great stop off because the cathedral and main Christmas market are right outside of the train station.
The square around the cathedral and the Christmas market are not as cute and charming as others that you will find around Europe. That said, Koln was the first place I ever had raclette so it will always be a wonderfully pleasant memory.
If you have never had raclette, here is its deal. Imagine a half-wheel of cheese mounted on a spit with a heating element that slowly melts off the top of the cut edge of the wheel. This melted part is then scraped off onto a chunk of toasty bread. It’s like a first kiss and Koln will always have a soft spot in my heart for it.
Next up, Norway! We will be reporting back from the Christmas markets in Oslo in about two weeks.
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