What can you do in Rome with Kids?
While New York is rightly called the Big Apple, Rome is the Big Apple of the western world with more than 2,500 years of approachable history for tourists both and families.
In our 20 years of European travel, Mrs. AK and I have been to Rome ten times, and every experience has provided a different bite of the apple. No single trip has matched any other, and everyone has provided new experiences.
Rome was born in legend, built on history, and destroyed and rebuilt countless times. Now this modern city features hipster culture growing out of crumbling walls that seem as homey as grandma's house, yet as regal as the Pope's vestments.
When looking at traveling to Rome with kids, the first thing to realize is that it is a huge city. Unlike other major European capitals, there is not a single city center where you can stake out a home base. Nor is there a single set of "must-see" places to conquer in a day or two to make your visit complete. Rome defies the checklist mentality of many travel itineraries.
To plan a trip to Rome with kids, the first thing to determine is...
Which Rome do you want to see?
Rome is a big city and while you can walk to many sites, you shouldn't plan to walk to every place you want to visit with kids. Many amazing sites are grouped together, yet there is not a single, central location which means that you need to plan a little bit ahead and identify which type of Rome you want to see.
Which "type" of Rome did you say? Through our many trips to Rome, we have developed a perspective that as a visitor, you can get more out of your sightseeing time and energy if you focus your plans on one of four distinct types of Roman experiences. So as I mentioned before...
Which of the four Romes do you want to see?
1. Rome: the Ancient Empire
2. Rome: the seat of Christianity
3. Rome: the artistic and baroque
4. Rome: the neighborhoods and modern
One of the most beautiful things about Rome is that you can experience all four types of the city in just about every neighborhood you visit every day that you are there. However, do not try to do all four types Rome in just one day.
Checklist=style tourists will hit Europe and mark London by seeing Big Ben, Paris by the Eiffel Tower, and maybe Venice by the canals, but that approach falls apart in Rome. The Vatican, the Colosseum, the Forum. No other city holds such a grand top three, and while you could visit all three in a day, your kids will be exhausted beasts after trying to breeze through them at such a pace.
Rome: The Ancient Empire - Let's start with the ancient and more famous
While kids might not appreciate the scope of history in the ruins of the Empire, most of the ancient sites are sprawling places that invite exploring nooks and crannies which can help to run out the energy of little legs.
The most famous and photographed ruins of the ancient city are clustered together and can be easily managed in a day or even an afternoon if you aren't spending too much time in any single spot. This includes the Colosseum, the Palatine Hill, and the Imperial Forum -- which is actually a group of different city centers built over the centuries of the Republic and Empire.
While they are all impressive, the Colosseum is the most stunning. Kids and adults alike can't help but be awed by the crumbly majesty of the ancient sports stadium. It is one of those places that you walk up to for the first time and all of the headaches of travel melt away and you feel inspired and insignificant all at the same time.
If you have babies, the Colosseum is manageable with a stroller thanks to elevators to various levels. If you have kids older than 7, find a tour guide to share the amazing, if somewhat gruesome, history of the world's most famous sports stadium.
The Forum is the ancient city plaza littered with several dozen historically significant sites. Some are no more than a few bricks pushing out of the soil, while others are majestic, soaring arches and buildings. It lacks the singular visual impressiveness of the Colosseum, but it is right next door which makes it an easy two-stop trip. I recommend giving the kids a cursory history of ancient Rome, let them be awed by the Colosseum and then do a picnic lunch in the Forum.
Quick note: While the Colosseum is mostly stroller friendly with smooth paths and elevators to the upper levels, the Forum is a challenge. A bjorn or backpack carrier would be a better option for babies and toddlers at the Forum.
Across Imperial Forum and Palatine Hill, some buildings are gorgeously crumbly while others are no more than a half dozen foundation stones. Some imagination is required, but it takes little prompting to get most kids excited about ancient civilizations.
Also in this area are individual highlights such as Hadrian's Arch -- with beautifully intricate carvings showing an ancient army's victory parade. The Circus Maximus is a wide open space great for running and playing. The Flavian Palace is one of the best preserved of the ancient palaces in the ancient city.
If you need a break from the heat, the nearby Capitoline Museum is home to thousands of artifacts that have been unearthed over the years. Classic statuary, Roman coins and comically large statues of feet and heads will hold kids attention for an hour or two.
Beyond the ancient city center, ruins of the Empire are dotted throughout the city. Just beyond an ancient defensive wall, the Baths of Carcalla are the most massive ruins you'll see towering thirty feet high. While slightly out of the city center, it's an interesting place for a picnic.
Even Rome's subway system has spots for exploring the city's imperial history. As the subway system has been expanded over the past decade, the tunneling has unearthed tons of new finds and many subways stations are turning into mini-museums of ancient artifacts. Which is a great way to get a taste of Roman history without having to go through a massive museum.
The Argentina Ruins, aka Largo di Torre Argentina, are another small collection of four temples and a theater seemingly plopped into a residential neighborhood in central Rome. It is a stone's throw from Campo de'Fiori and is small enough to visit in 10 minutes as you are walking between sites in the Navona/Fiori/Pantheon area.
Lastly, for a bit of campy fun, enroll your kids in Gladiator School. Several outfits offer boot camp-style training sessions with calisthenics, wooden sword and shield training. On our last trip to Rome, we were traveling with another family. We enrolled five kids in Gladiator School and spent a leisurely two hours sipping wine and watching our kids learn the basics of ancient combat.
The Colosseum
the Imperial Forum
Palatine Hill
Hadrian's Arch
Circus Maximus
Flavian Palace
Capitoline museum
Baths of Carcalla
Rome's subways
Largo Argentina ruins (an easy stroll-by stop if you are styaing in the Piazza Navonna/Campo dei Fiori area.
Gladiator school
Rome: the seat of Christianity
Churches in Rome are not just about religion and spirituality; they reflect and represent the deep ties between culture, history and beliefs that are as old as Western Civilization itself. Churches are a ubiquitous part of Rome's streetscape -- with 955 churches in the city, from grand structures with two thousand years of history, to tidy little neighborhood spaces.
From palatial to piccolo, plan to explore a few churches in Rome...even for just a short pop-in. Whenever I step into a church, I do what Mrs. AK's Sicilian Grandmother told me, "make a wish when you first you step in. Drop a coin in the offering box, light a candle, say a prayer and then you'll have good luck for three days after." I always make sure I give the kids a coin or two so they can light a candle in a church. A candle and a prayer for a relative is a great respite and mental reset for any traveler and can bring a moment of spiritual reverence to any kid.
The epicenter of Christendom, Vatican City is an independent country that you can walk across in a matter of minutes. Within it, you will find the Vatican itself, the Vatican Museum, St. Peter's Basilica and countless treasures within.
While many guides will recommend a full day exploring St. Peter's along with the Vatican City, and then another full day for the Vatican Museum, that is way too much for most kids.
Instead, I recommend starting at Ponte Sant'Angelo. This pedestrian bridge was built in ancient times and now is adorned with a dozen statues of saints and angels. It's a pretty spot for a stroll and one of the best spots in Rome for pictures of the river and city.
At the north end of the bridge is the imposing Castel Sant'Angelo. Looming like a layer cake made of solid brick and stone above the Tiber, the Castel was originally a mausoleum and later a prison and fortress to protect the Popes. Impressive from the outside, the inside has a brief audio tour and more amazing views of the city.
Leaving the Castel, stroll down the Via Della Conciliazione towards St. Peter's Square. This route might be the prettiest walk in Rome ending with a beautiful view into St. Peter's Square and the basilica itself.
Along the way, you may be tempted to stop at any one of the many souvenir stands where kids can buy a rosary or little statue of famous Roman buildings for a euro or two. I've found this stretch of road to the be cheapest place in town to buy some silly baubles, including my collection of Pope Bottle Openers "Popeners" that are always fun at parties. It is also a great place to buy a rosary, if you are so inclined.
St. Peter's Square is an expansive open space that serves as the front yard of the Vatican. When Papal masses are held in the square, crowds can swell to 80,000. On other days the square serves as the queuing system to get into the most famous church in the world. Some days you will wait an hour or two to get in. Other days, there is barely a five minute line.
As impressive inside as out, St. Peter's Basilica is also home to the Pieta, Michelangelo's hauntingly beautiful and delicate statue of Mary and Jesus. You could easily spend and hour or two exploring the naves, alters and statues throughout the Basilica.
But be ready, because St. Peters is only one of two blockbuster sites in Vatican City, but you'll need to have a ton more energy and the right attitude to hit the Vatican Museum.
The Vatican Museum is a sprawling complex that houses world famous art including the Sistine Chapel and thousands of Renaissance works. On one of our first trips to Rome, we had a wonderful tour with a hired guide through the Museum. The guide (who we hired on the spot outside the museum) took us through a rapid paced tour of the most significant works while our son was napping in his stroller. He slept for two entire hours while we got to be adult tourists. It was perfect. We were lucky.
What I'm trying to say is that the Vatican Museum is among the world's greats, but it can be challenging for kids unless they can really enjoy an art museum or are blissfully relaxed in a stroller. It's also an extraordinary large museum, so map out your itinerary to make the best use of kiddo's time and energy.
Some other notable churches to seek out:
The Church of the Capucians: Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini -- A tad morbid in a Tim Burton way, this church features monuments made out of the bones of monks who served there. Warning: seeing skeletons might be too scary for little ones but this could also be super cool for anyone who likes creepy things.
San Clemente -- The most interesting of Rome's less famous churches. It includes architecture and sections preserved from the 1st century AD, dark ages, middle ages and up through the 15th century. It was even sacked by barbarians.
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere -- You could call this a "neighborhood" church as it is officially a "minor" basilica, yet most local churches can't trace their history back to 340 AD. The church walls and facade are covered with beautiful frescoes and mosaics, many of which are 700, 800, even 900 hundred years old. The square in front of the church is great place for people watching with friends, families and tourists alike meeting, eating and chatting all day and night.
The Pantheon -- This amazing place could fit under both the Ancient Rome and the Christian Rome tags. While small as basilicas go, the Pantheon sits regally on a perfect Roman square. Perfectly domed, and with manageable crowds, the Pantheon is architecturally, historically and spiritually unique. The oculus at the center of the dome kept our kids entranced while we marveled at the site where so many of Rome's greatest are interred.
Today, the Pantheon is the oldest building in Rome that has been a continuous church. Its simple form is captivating from the outside and beautiful from the inside.
It's an AK favorite because it is one of those rare finds that can be a 10 minute stop or a 2 hour explore--with an amazing "salumeri" on the same square. Plus, it is centrally located and an easy stop while you're exploring other parts of Rome.
Side note: Salumeri roughly translates to "Salami Place" but imagine a little shop with dozens upon dozens of amazing locally sources meats and cheeses.
A short bus ride from the city center is the Catacombs of San Callisto. These burial chambers were cleared of bones long ago, but are still worth a visit to see relics and graffiti from some of the world's earliest Christians who used the catacombs for mass and other religious services during their early days of persecution. The area around the catacombs is layered will beautiful poppy fields, which bloom in late spring, make the journey alone worth the trip.
Ponte Sant'Angelo
Castel Sant'Angelo
Via Della Conciliazione
The Vatican & Vatican City
St. Peter's Basilica
the Pieta
the Sistine Chapel
The Church of the Capucians
San Clemente
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
The Pantheon
Light a candle
Buy a rosary
The Catacombs of San Callisto
Rome: the artistic and baroque
During the Enlightenment, Western Europe fell in love with all things classical. After centuries of neglect, suddenly, columns and statues based on ancient models were all the rage again. Rome, more than seemingly any other city in Europe, erupted in gold, white, gilded, and frilly ornamentation. This is the city of Roman Holiday with fountains and spaces that evoke a la dolci vita feeling.
The most famous of all baroque sites is the Trevi Fountain. When in Rome...sometimes you gotta do the cliche. It is as gaudy as it is beautiful. As touristy as it is Roman. You'll visit the fountain hoping to fall in love and be disappointed. You'll stroll by again with low expectations and feel a tug at your heart. Go early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid the crowds. It's ultra romantic at night...even with kiddos underfoot.
Our personal favorite space in Rome is Piazza Navona, an oval shaped gathering space built on the site of a former chariot racing center. Artists and street musicians can be found performing for a few coins and the massive Bernini fountains on either side are a magnet for little ones. Piazza Navona is nearly fully enclosed and pedestrian only so you can relax and grab a coffee while your little ones run and explore.
I think one of the most overrated sites in Rome is the Spanish Steps. While most piazzas are content to be cool squares, the Spanish Steps connect two of Rome's otherwise forgettable public squares with, you guessed it, stairs. On the plus side it's a monument to people watching as much as anything else and any kids will get tuckered out running up and down.
A stones throw away from the Spanish Steps is the massive monument square of Piazza Venezia.
While you might not make Piazza Venezia a destination, you will likely traverse this traffic choked square while heading from one part of Rome to another. It is somewhat fitting that that public homage to the 19th century politician who united the minor kingdoms and duchies to create the modern Italy is a magnet for just about every scooter in Rome and is one of the most traffic logged areas in the entire country. While not on the top ten of kid friendly spots, this monument is gaudy to the point of beauty and the seeming 200 steps are a great challenge for kids to huff up. At the top is the Vittoriano, aka the National Monumento to Victor Emmanuel II, housing the remains of the Unknown Soldier
Rounding out the review of piazzi is the Piazza del Popolo. Italy is all about piazza and the Piazza del Popolo is perhaps the biggest piazza in the entire world. Endless room for kids to run--but not nearly as charming as any of the others mentioned previously.
The Villa Borghese Gardens is Rome's entry into the list of classically manicured gardens of Europe. Immaculate lawns, steps begging for little feet to conquer and miles upon miles of trails. It is one of my favorite places to go for a picnic lunch and escape the normal hustle bustle of Rome.
Within the gardens sits the Villa Borghese Museum. If you love all things baroque, this is the pool that you'll want to drown in. Seemingly endless rooms with art tacked up on nearly every surface of every wall. It's like the biggest collection of grandma's bric-a-brac but fancier. However, it is not a place to hold young kids attention for very long. I would only recommend this place if you (and your kids) are really into renaissance art.
Trevi Fountain
Piazza Navona
Splashing in Bernini's Fountains
The Spanish Steps
Piazza Venezia
Piazza del Popolo
Vittoriano
Villa Borghese
Museum Borghese
Rome: Eating, drinking and exploring neighborhoods
When you go beyond (or the kids get sick of) the history, art, churches and architecture, Rome is still thick with food, fun and culture for families to discover. Here is a roundup of our favorite flavors and cultural experiences across Rome.
Piazza della Rotunda
Antica Salumeri
Granita at La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D'oro
Campo de'Fiori
Cul de Sac
Gelato
Il Gelato di San Crispino
True Roman pizza
Finding your coffee shop
Wine bars everywhere
Trastevere
Soccer at the Olympic Colosseum
Spaghetti carbonara you'll ever taste
Amazing fried street foods at Pizza Mami
Kid-focused Italian cooking classes
Bonus for Mom & Dad: Il Piccolo
One of my favorite spots to just sit and soak it all in is the Piazza della Rotunda, the square facing the Pantheon. It is a tidy little gathering spot that never seems very crowded, even in peak tourist season. I enjoy sitting at the base of the Renaissance era fountain with the Egyptian obelisk on top, and gaze at the Pantheon while thinking about the thousands of years of humanity that is all represented on the paved stones.
On one side of this square is Antica Salumeri, the name literally means, "Old Salami House." Dozens of locally cured meats are for sale by the gram or in sandwiches that you can munch on in the square. If you are traveling, they will even vacuum-pack sliced meets for a trip back to America.
Around the corner is La Casa Del Caffè Tazza D'Oro, a typical little Roman coffee shop with the expected offerings of coffees and pastries, but what sets it apart is the house Granita -- coffee that is frozen snow-cone style, mixed with cream and topped with whipped cream. Perfect for a warm day when you need a caffeine kick.
A few blocks from Piazza Navona is Campo de'Fiori, another fun Roman square that is home to a permanent open air market. Fresh veggies and fruit in season, cheese, oils and truffles year round. For around 10 euros you can buy a whole black truffle.
Near the north side of Piazza Navona is the teeny, tiny Cul de Sac. This gem of a restaurant features more than fifty locally cured meats and cheeses.
Gelato is not just a food in Rome, for parents it can be a form of currency used to bribe children. Even on a cold day, kids want gelato. I'm not one to deny them, but I am one to use leverage when I have it. My go to threat in Italy is, "fine, no gelato" which usually illicits an immediate positive change in behavior.
Plan on having a gelato every day. My favorite place is Il Gelato di San Crispino. Every gelato stand in Rome claims to be the best, but San Crispino truly is. Tucked around the corner from the Trevi Fountain, it is well worth the trip.
Beyond gelato, you will definitely have pizza. Lots of pizza. Pizza in Italy is unlike most any that you find in the US. There are no New York vs Chicago-style arguments* here. In Italy, pizza is one size and one style...only the toppings change. Thin crust, super crispy on the edge but chewy with melty cheese in the middle. Margherita is the standard tomato sauce and cheese, but try to make the kids branch out and try different toppings. Artichoke and prosciutto is my personal fave.
*Editors note: Chicago rules, NY is cardboard garbage.
While pizza and gelato are the ubiquitous treats of Italian cuisine, it is coffee and wine that are the true elixirs of culture. No matter where you stay in Rome, there will be a cafe on the corner. Find whatever shop is closest to where you are staying and go there on the first day of your stay. Introduce yourself to the barista and make a point of stopping in every morning and most evenings. By the second or third visit, you will be greeted like family and your corner cafe will be your entree to Roman culture.
There will also be a wine bar close by. Find the nearest one and make it your other neighborhood haunt. The wine is pretty much guaranteed to be great. Higher-end wine bars are a much needed escape from kids while more casual ones will not only welcome the littles, they may also have a lineup of "self service" bottles at the bar that you can pour yourself and pay via the honor system when you are done.
When you are in Rome, you will be walking. Even the most basic stroll from point A to B is a chance to explore a neighborhood...and there is no better neighborhood to stroll in Rome than Trastevere. South of Vatican City as the crow flies and across the Tiber from the more touristy parts of Rome, Trastevere feels like family in a town full of strangers. Even first time visitors to Rome will visit Trastevere and know that is where they would want to live if plopped down in the city. What it lacks in obvious history and baroque background it makes up in being the family neighborhood of the centuries old city. The piazza in front of the Basillica is THE community spot where kids meet to kick a soccer ball, moms chase kids about and teens do what teens do.
There are few cultural opportunities to see Italians as peak Italianese than at a soccer match. Italy is second only to Brazil in the number of World Cup wins and the people love their "calcio" from the national team to the lowest club team. Rome has the advantage of having two internationally recognized teams with Roma and Lazio, plus the frequently visiting juggernauts of Juventis, AC Milan and fun regional teams across the country. Tickets can be had for less than 20 Euro per seat. Plus there is something magical about seeing soccer in Italy at the same stadium that hosted the Olympics in 1960.
My favorite restaurant in all of Italy is absolutely Osteria dell Subura. This family run restaurant is found on a gritty yet hip side street in the Subura neighborhood of Rome. Subura was one of the first "suburbs" of the ancient city some 2,000 years ago. Green and white checker cloth covered tables are packed tightly and the vina della casa (house wine) runs about 7 euros for a bottle. But the star of the show is the spaghetti carbonara. You will never find a better version of this dish anywhere in Italy. The perfect combo of egg, prosciutto, cheese and black pepper will be a meal that you will might never forget.
Pizza Mami -- Modern decor lunch spot with a great lineup of pizzas, sandwiches and funky, fun small plates for nibbling while you walk. The small plates make it easy to try many new flavors without being locked into a full meal that kids might reject. Check out the fried zucchini flowers.
Several places in Rome also offer kid-focused cooking classes. Have your little chefs put on an apron and make homemade pasta or pizza while mom and dad enjoy a glass of wine.
Bonus for Mom & Dad
Il Piccolo is a tiny little wine bar and restaurant that feels so homey you might want to curl up with a bottle of wine and move in. Kid-friendly in the early evening, it is also a great spot for a date night if Mom and Dad can steal some time away from the kids.
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