In 25 years of traveling to Europe, we passively avoided Palermo. We’ve been to Italy a dozen times, including Sicily, but something about Palermo seemed intimidating. Perhaps we were unfairly spooked by stories of the Mafia. Or maybe it was hearing about pick-pockets and robberies from backpackers. Perhaps it was simply a belief that while all of Italy has a certain chaos to it, Palermo’s would be so intense that it would not be worth the effort.
When I say passively avoided, it’s not like we had a specific opportunity to go, but rather we kept it off of our list of places to see when trip planning.
We realized what a mistake that was when we finally visited in June 2024.
First up, a major caveat, Palermo isn’t and won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. While some places can be called “rough around the edges,” Palermo has a gritty edge that runs right through the heart of town. But if you can embrace the chaos, overlook the rubbish on the street, and drive with the heart of a Sicilian, you may come to love Palermo just as much as we did.
To put it another way, if you can enjoy the dirty beauty of a city street adorned with graffiti and a bit of urban funk, give it a chance.
What we loved about Palermo:
We lucked out and booked our accommodations on a boat moored in the recently revitalized marina just a few minutes walk from the historic center. Not only was the boat stay a huge hit with the kids, but outdoor dining and cocktail spots were mere steps away. We also were able to park in a convenient and safe parking lot adjacent to the marina.
Street drink carts featuring fresh citrus. Kiddos could enjoy a refreshing granita, while the adults indulged in Aperol spritz roadies.
Street food! Palermo has abundant street food markets featuring items to please anyone’s palate. From arancini to cannoli to grilled seafood, you can grab a snack or an entire meal while wandering from market to market.
Music. The streets were filled with music in the evenings, making our walk home with post-dinner gelati even more magical.
Speaking of dessert — we loved visiting a bakery located inside a convent. There were countless pastries to try and cannoli filled while you watched. And we were able to enjoy them in a beautiful courtyard garden.
History. Sicily, and Palermo especially, have been a crossroads of different cultures for centuries with each leaving some fingerprints on the food, architecture, and overall vibe. From the Greeks, Moors, and Normans, to the Spanish, the list of cultural influencers in Sicily is deep and varied.
What we didn’t love:
The garbage collection leaves much to be desired. In some spots, there were piles of rubbish and a high level of litter on the streets.
Driving can be challenging, and we were very selective in where we parked. We were also careful to make sure that no items were visible in the car when left unattended.
Some of the street food was underwhelming. We also were a little concerned with some of the food safety practices.
We did a horse-drawn carriage ride, but later heard that some horses are mistreated and work in dangerously hot conditions. That may have changed our decision if we had realized that in advance.
If you are looking for a carbon copy of the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre, this is not it. But if you want something a little grittier and less polished, but with a fun, contagious energy, do not overlook Palermo.
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