The word über has become synonymous with the ride service but the original German word holds much more meaning. Like so many of the "great" words in non-English languages, it holds multiple meanings steeped with nuance and context.
In the most basic translation, über means "more." But with a minimal amount of push, it also means super, bigger, and ultimate. It is all of that and more so. In fact, "more so" might be its most pure translation. Anything über is, by definition itself, more so. It might just be the most German word in the German language.
Thus, Nuremberg is the über city of Germany. It is all German and more so. Old. New. Friendly. Reserved. Historic. Efficient and self-aware. Cozy, yet cosmopolitan. Nuremberg is all of these things and more so. Nuremberg is also great for kids.
The city has a royal history, a cool arts scene, WWII sites, and Black Death memorials plus a fairytale feel oozing from every timbered house and brick tower. Blending centuries of history yet still feeling approachable and modern is what Nuremberg does. The city was bombed heavily in WWII and after the war, the residents were faced with a decision to rebuild in the old style or go modern. Many cities went modern but Nuremberg went old school--recycling centuries-old brick to rebuild hundreds of structures from the old city walls and ramparts to the Frauenkirche and castle. This faithful restoration is just one of the many reasons that Nuremberg is easily one of our favorite cities in Germany.
The city is a great place to visit any time of year, but we especially love the fall. The changing leaves and a cool breeze make the medieval sites all the more picturesque. From about Thanksgiving through December, Nuremberg is also home to a postcard-perfect Christmas Market.
Getting there
Nuremberg is a quick trip from either Munich or Frankfurt. More than a dozen daily trains make the trip from Munich's main station in just over an hour, while the drive is about 90 minutes. A trip from Frankfurt is about two hours. Two to three days in Nuremberg is ideal, but with quick connections, you can easily make it a day trip from the bigger cities.
Plus, if you make Nuremberg a base for a few days, you can hit the sugar-coated Rothenburg ob der Tauber as well as the other villages on the Insta-perfect Romantic Road.
Quick tip: if you take the train, you can make a stop at the Nuremberg Transport Museum which is directly next door to the train station and features 150 years of train history from the Deutsche Bahn -- perfect for any little train buffs in your family.
See & Do
If you are doing a day trip from another city, you can see a smattering of the highlights of Nuremberg in a day. But to truly enjoy the city, I would stay for at least two full days.
The Walls of Nuremberg
Exiting the train station, the first thing you will notice about Nuremberg is the stunning city wall. Medieval with a capital M, the walls of Nuremberg run a roughly five-kilometer circuit around the old town center. Towers, moats, and even a draw bridge can be found along its length. Many towns throughout Europe have a portion of medieval walls, but Nuremberg's are formidable -- evoking both a Grimm's fairytale feel and a Game of Thrones eminence.
Train Museum
If you have a kid who likes trains or loves Thomas the Tank Engine, then the train museum is definitely worth a stop. An hour is enough time, but you could spend three wandering cars, engines, and displays from the 200-year history of the Deutsche Bahn,
Nazi Documentation Center
Due in no small part to the Germanness of Nuremberg, the city was a favorite of Adolf Hitler. Some of the biggest Nazi rallies ever held were at the parade grounds just outside the city center. It is also part of the reason that the WWII war crimes tribunals were located here. The Documentation Center is part archive and part museum devoted to helping foster a greater understanding of how the National Socialist Party secured power and how Hitler subsequently held a country under his spell for a decade. Neither celebratory nor apologetic, the museum lets the posters, artifacts, and documents of the time tell the story of the rise of the Nazis. It's striking to stroll the halls and hear the echoes of propaganda and fascism still reverberating today. While it is one of the more fascinating places in Europe, the meaning and significance would be likely lost on kids under the age of 12. Plus younger kids with a rambunctious streak would likely distract from the otherwise somber mission of the facility.
Nuremberg Cathedral
The Frauenkirche of Nuremberg is the city's main Catholic church. Frauenkirche is a common name for churches in Germany and translates to Church of Our Lady. The site has a dark history. Following an outbreak of the plague in the 1300s, the local Jewish population was blamed and driven out with a pogrom. A synagog on this site was destroyed and this new church was built. It has a unique spindly, spiky facade with a working glockenspiel (jumbo-sized cuckoo clock mechanism) that is 500 years old and goes off at noon each day. The daily performance is interesting but don't go out of your way to see it. The church is full of medieval art and sculpture which makes a short visit worthwhile.
Main Square
Just about every town has a main square, but Nuremberg's is one of the prettiest in Germany and perhaps all of Europe. The Frauenkirche fronts one side, an elaborate fountain with its own fabled history marks another corner and proper German buildings with ornate frescoes ring the perimeter. This square has hosted a market for 800 years...maybe even a thousand and you can feel the history as you walk through. Markets are still held today offering everything from fresh fruit to sweet treats and the occasional antique hawker.
The square is also host to the Nuremberg Christmas Market which is one of the prettiest and most popular in all of Europe.
Hangman's Bridge & Tower
Like many of Nuremberg's most picturesque sites, the Hangman's Bridge and Tower was built in the early 1300s. The wooden bridge and half-timbered house comprise the most photo-worthy spot in a town filled with Instagrammy locations. During the Middle Ages, hangmen and executioners were social outcasts and could not live within the city proper. The home and bridge were the family's connection and grim commuting corridor. Today it's a pretty backdrop for your little prince or princess to walk through a fairytale setting.
Old Castle
The Imperial Castle is another all-star of medieval storybook sites in Nuremberg. Impossibly high walls and round towers make this imposing structure a gorgeous site. It's one of those sites that is so pretty you wonder if the Imagineers at Disney built it last night. The interior of the castle is a fun tour. We love making a picnic lunch and having it in the courtyard.
Albrecht Dürer House
He's not as famous as Da Vinci or Michaelangelo, but for my money, Dürer is the GOAT of painters. His 500-year-old home is now a museum showcasing several of his amazing paintings and drawings. My kid's favorite is a drawing of a rhinoceros he made without ever seeing the animal in real life or in a picture. He simply drew a real-life-looking portrait from the verbal description of a traveler. The museum also has an interactive scavenger hunt for kids.
Underground Nuremberg
Several miles of tunnels were carved into the rock under the city over the course of the centuries. These tunnels were used to age beer, and store ice, pickles, and other goods. During WWII, they served as shelters for city residents, saving tens of thousands of lives as the city was blown down to piles of bricks. You can take an interesting tour to learn and see the history of this otherwise overlooked part of the town's history. My favorite is the tour that ends with a pint from Hausbrauerei Altstadthof
I think this translates to House Brewery of the Old City King or something. It doesn't matter. The beer is excellent and the brewpub is kid friendly. We visited in December one year, and I brought back a suitcase full of mugs and brews for my beer-loving cousins. They also have an onsite distillery if you prefer a whiskey. Besides, after traveling a few thousand miles with your kids in tow, you deserve a drink.
Free City Walk
Free City Walks are an increasingly popular activity across many European cities. We typically eye them with a bit of skepticism because we've been on some that weren't worth the time and actually felt like two hours wasted. Nuremberg's however, is not that way. The free city walk...led by a German named Leo...was informative and fun. He also suggested a great place for beer and ice cream for the kids at the end of the tour. I especially appreciated his perspective on the WWII memorials and remembrance monuments from the war crimes trials.
Eats
You can't go to Nuremberg without having several Nuremberger sausages. You will be arrested if you try to leave the city without noshing on a few. In fact, the legend behind these small bratwursts is that a sausage maker devised the diminutive sausages specifically to fit through the keyhole of a jail cell so that he could feed an incarcerated friend. Bratwursthausle is the center of the old town is the best place for these brats. This old half-timbered house has a huge grill in the center sizzling with dozens and dozens of Nurembergers. Order a half dozen with a side of either sauerkraut or kartofellsalat (potato salad) served on a seemingly antique steel plate.
Comments