24 Hours in Copenhagen with Kids

Why Copenhagen?

Copenhagen is becoming a great alternative hub for easy flights to and from the US, in part because it doesn't have the exorbitant taxes and passenger fees of Heathrow but does have great connections to the rest of Europe.  With SAS (Scandinavian Air Services) increasing its inventory of flights in/out of the US, adding a day in Copenhagen to the beginning or end of your trip adds a bit of extra adventure and one new stamp to your kids' passports.

Getting In and Out

The Copenhagen Airport is just outside the city in Kastrup, Denmark, but the train to the city center is fast (takes about 15 minutes) and cheap (about $6 per adult, kids are free). 

TIP: If you have just 24 hours in a city, any city, pack all that you need for that time in one suitcase. Most airlines will allow you to check the remainder of your bags to your final destination while grabbing your single bag in Copenhagen. That way you'll have less to wrangle on your short stay. 

The Hotel D'Angleterre Hotel at the top of Kongens Nytorv (King's Square) dresses itself up as a larger than life Advent Calendar

Where to Stay

For a one-night excursion, staying in a standard hotel is an easier option than an AirBNB because you can get in/out quickly and the concierge or front desk staff can quickly guide you to the best things to see and do nearby. For our one-day stay, we tried the Scandic Hotel Copenhagen in the western part of the city center. Situated on St. George's Lake, many of the rooms have a gorgeous view of the water and the paths surrounding the lake are ideal for a jog or stroll with the kids. 

The Scandic is a regional chain with locations across Scandinavia and Northern Europe with three locations in central Copenhagen. Despite arriving after 10 pm, the front desk staff greeted the kids with big smiles and presented each of them with a "welcome pack" with coloring books and a small wooden yo-yo.

The rooms are what you would expect for a hotel that welcomes business travelers with sleek Nordic design, comfy beds, desk and a flat screen TV. We weren't planning to spend more than a minute awake in our room, but it was nice to have a spot that was so comfy it felt familiar. TIP: Down near the buffet is a kids play room with video games, toys, books and crayons for writing all over the walls -- and yes, kids are encouraged to write on the walls.

The buffet breakfast was huge and featured British, American and Scandinavian fare. The kids opted for pancakes, bacon and eggs. I went for some locally sourced dried meats, crusty bread and cheese cut straight from a big wheel. There was even a tray of pickled herring, which I discovered must be an acquired taste. Mrs. AK was happy for a piping hot and frothy latte. 

What to See

Strøget is one of Europe's longest pedestrian zones. You can easily lose an afternoon wandering along the cobbled streets ducking in and out of shops and watching street performers. There are countless boutiques for both mom and dad to check out some new threads. Housewares shops are a great bet to find a useful knick-knack that doubles as a souvenir. Mrs. AK loves her designed handle-less coffee mugs. There is also a pub or two tucked here and there so Dad can have a break. The Flying Tiger is a funky shop that features Danish designed bits of everything from greeting cards to games to housewares. TIP: Give the kids 5 Euros to pick out whatever they want and they will find a fun little treasure. Robby picked out a 3 Euro flag-matching memory game. Eight months later, we still play the game and he knows the flag of more than 50 countries.

The Lego Store is probably the most popular shop on the Strøget which makes sense because the Dane-invented toys are famous all over the world. You can find your way there by tracing a backwards path from all of the tourists with their bright yellow Lego bags. Larger-than-life Lego statues greet you out front and rows upon rows of building sets tempt your wallet all throughout the store. While Legos are notoriously expensive, those in Denmark are roughly 10% to 20% less than back home in the US. TIP: The Lego store in Copenhagen also features some exclusive building sets that you can't buy anywhere else.

The Dragons of City Hall: Sitting regally at one of end of the Strøget, the Copenhagen City Hall is relatively young by European standards having been built only in 1905 but it predates the clean lines that most associate with Nordic design. The square in front is a huge open space for kids to run or kick a soccer ball about. The building is a great backdrop for family pictures, plus there are a bunch of dragon statues across the front steps and a cool but creepy Dragon Fountain on the west corner of the square. 

The Little Mermaid Statue: While the Little Mermaid Statue is probably Copenhagen's most famous landmark, but much like Manneken Pis, it is underwhelming. Be ready for Dad to pull a Clark Griswold and spend no more than a hot second gazing upon the bronze beauty.

Kastellet: If your kids are into castles and fortresses, the Kastellet is definitely worth a visit. It is one of Europe's best preserved star fortresses and is still a working military outpost. It is open to visitors for a stroll around the grounds. Kids will get a kick out of the little red windmill inside as well. 

Nyhaven: Another famous strolling zone, the Nyhaven is a waterfront stretch of colorful buildings that look like a living postcard. There are tons of cafes and street food vendors along the promenade to take a break and grab a snack.

Other things to see/do:

The Danish Museum of Design & Art: If you love the look of Ikea, this museum is for you. It houses a century's worth of Denmark's achievements in design from architecture to tires.

Boat tours: Consider a boat tour along the canals and harbor to save tired feet. Most offer a pre-recorded narration available in a half-dozen different languages.

Tivoli:  First opened in 1846, the Tivoli Gardens sprawl across acres of green space in the heart of the city center and is well known as one of the world's first amusement parks. Picture 19th Century Romanticism with carousels and pinwheels for younger kids and enough dizzying, spinning rides to keep older kids off their phones. 

What to Eat

Danish food reflects its Nordic heritage with lots of seafood, crusty breads, cheese and berries.  While some local favorites might be a tough sell for the kids, the sweet treats are many and easy to find. If you are town for just 24-hours, opt for cafes, food carts or the Copenhagen Street Food Market (re-opening in May 2018) for a fun way to sample a bunch of different local specialties.

Smørrebrød - Open face sandwiches typically topped with shrimp, salmon and other savory combinations.

Pølser - Not quite a hot dog, but pretty close to it. You can get it plain with ketchup, but pickles and mustard are a more authentic local option.

​​Æbleskiver - Something between a cake and a donut, these are usually dusted with powdered sugar and served with lingonberry jam. 

Wienerbrød - What do they call a danish in Denmark? Wienerbrød. It sounds like a Dad Joke, but it tastes delicious and your kids will love it.

Pickled Herring - Yes. It is pickled fish. Pickled herring is as Danish as Apple Pie is American. It's virtually the national food and kids learn to love the briny bite of the jarred (or canned) fish. I didn't like it but visiting Copenhagen and not having pickled herring is like going to New York and not having pizza.

Following Our Footsteps:

Our 24 hours in Copenhagen was in late November 2017. We built in the

short layover at the end of a nine-day Thanksgiving trip that included one day in Stockholm on the way in and a week split between Venice and Rome. The play-by-play is as follows:

• Land at Copenhagen Airport

• Check in all but one bag for our flight home to Chicago

• Train from airport to Copenhagen Central Station

• Buy snacks, water and two beers from the 7-11 at the Central Station

• Walk to our place at the Scandic Hotel 

• Snacks, drinks, watch some Danish TV and bed

• Up early the next morning -- breakfast at the buffet

• Out by 8:30 to start exploring

• Self-guided walking tour past the Tycho Brahe Planetarium, City Hall and through the Strøget

• Pit stop for comfy coffee at the Espresso House Kongens Nytorv (King's Square)

• Explore the Christmas Market at Kongens Nytorv

• Kids run through King's Garden Park

• Lunch at Hans Christian Andersen Christmas Market of Smørrebrød and plain Pølser for the kids

• Walk towards Nyhaven checking out the boats bobbing in the cold water

• Stroll stop for Æbleskiver, hot chocolate and some Glog to warm up 

• Drop $200 at the original Lego store

• Grab bags at the hotel, back to the train, then airport home